Jun 15 2014
I often field questions regarding what shooting board is the best fit for a woodworker. The truth is, it depends on the scope of ones work. What do you like to make? What do you think you will want to make in the future as your skills and design eye develop?
I want to take a few moments and try and help. While I cannot choose which shooting board is best for your style of work, we do offer a lot of different models to help support the work you do.
I may share some things about shooting boards and geometry you already know and understand, but in my experience in helping people understand which shooting board will serve them best, this explanation is thorough and helpful for getting everyone to a common understanding for making good decisions that work well over the long run.
First, some important facts.
There are 360 degrees in a circle.
180 degrees is half a circle and 90 is 1/4th of a circle. 45 degrees is 1/8th 22.5 is a 1/16th… Some of these are angles we commonly shoot.
Geometrically speaking, if a box which is three sided or more closes perfectly on each side, the sum of those angles and miters will also equal 360 degrees.
On those boxes, wherever there is an angle, that angle includes a miter.
A miter is an angle too, and the angle of any miter when cut perfectly will measure to be half of the total angle. e.g. if you have a 90 degree angle, you will need two miters, a left and right side, which measure 45 degrees, and mating those angles will result in the complete angle, thus: 45 left plus 45 right equal 90.
** It is always important to note that the miter angle is not the same as the total angle, and we need to be specific about which kind of angle we are referencing when we speak of what we want to do. What we want, and what it takes to get there are not the same thing.**
Acute angles are less than 90 degrees.
Oblique angles are more than 90 degrees.
Particularly when considering triangles, it takes “miter” angles less than 45 degrees (acute angles) to form miters for “total” angles which will be less than 90 degrees.
When considering box shapes that include “total” angles 90 degrees or greater, the “miter” angles will generally fall between 45 and 90 degrees. (Also acute angles)
Depending on the miter angle, acute “miter” angles can be used to form total angles that can become total angles that are either acute or oblique depending on which side of the 45 degree point they are on.
A shooting board that can shoot most any “miter” angle between 0-90 degrees, can be used to form “total angles between 0-180 degrees and in rectilinear stock, that 180 degrees remains true for the full 360 degrees, or in other words, either right or left 180 degree half (actually both halves) of a full 360.
If stock is rectilinear, it is either square or rectangular on face and edge. It can be flipped end for end and edge for edge and shot for “miter” angles. Left and right are interchangeable. As such, it can be accurized on a single chute shooting board.
If stock is a molding, it has a face side that is NOT rectilinear. This forces it to have a distinct left and right end, and it can only be accurized on a shooting board that has both a left and right chute and must be shot in the position it is intended to be placed.
Ok, so with that said, I’ll step into some details about Evenfall Studios shooting boards a bit.
Assuming we are shooting rectilinear stock, a single chute shooting board will work great!
Our shooting boards are built to be accurate and versatile. They are meticulously made to be legacy tools. In our single chute line, We offer five different models, from two to seven adjustable, and calibratable mounted angles. As a for instance, our Ultra Shooter has seven mounted adjustable angles it can be set to, and includes all the angles offered in our single chute board line . The included Standard Fence is made for shooting 90 and 45 degree angles only, but we offer a fence for each of the included mountable angles as accessories. I recommend them if you intend on shooting one specific angle frequently. We also offer a double high fence in every angle as well.
For all angles between 0 and 90 that our shooting boards will not specifically fixture, (and they will fixture the most used ones) there is the Any Angle Fence. Using it, we can mount at any angle the board will fixture, plus by using an F style clamp, it will fixture any angles between 0 and 90 within reason. (A 1 or 89 degree angle would be difficult to set and shoot, but also be unusable)
Fence thickness usability for blowout protection is about 11/16ths” on the Standard Fence. 1-7/16th” thick on the Double High Fence. The Any Angle Fence comes with two faces. One is 1″ high, the other 1-23/32nds” high, which is the max a 2 inch wide plane iron can reach on our boards.
All our shooting boards come standard (since 2012) with mounting bosses drilled and tapped for using any style chute adapter we offer. So if you buy a board without a Chute Adapter and want to upgrade later, it’s easy. If you already have a pre 2012 board without the bosses drilled and taped, we offer kits and instructions for retrofitting them.
Our single chute shooting board line when coupled with an Any Angle Fence will give you command over shooting any “miter” angles between 0-90 accurately. Command over shooting all “total” angles between 0-180 degrees. If the stock is rectilinear, you will have command over all angles needed for any shape to close boxes from 0-360.
What would you like to build?
If you are working with moldings, then the Master Miter Shooter is the shooting board for inside and outside miters which are based on 90 degree total angles. It’s very accurate and comprehensive.
If this explanation helps you better understand how to choose a shooting board for your needs, please feel free to place your order from our Online Store. If you still have any questions, please feel free to Contact Us.
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© Copyright 2014 by Rob Hanson for evenfallstudios.com All Rights Reserved.
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