Matt, I agree, be careful with that ruler, but then be careful with all rulers. Yours? Don’t cut yourself either!

Hi Pat, Your theory is sound, but there are times when a story stick is not be all end all either. Not discounting the story stick because I use them too, but it is just as important to become good at understanding the precision of measuring, and how to make it work for you, consistently. When you have it down, the snug fit you enjoy with story stick is just as obtainable.

No matter how you parse it, accurate layout is what rules best fit and finish!

Once I started relying on story sticks, things started fitting tighter, better, snugger…

You Ol’ Cabinet maker! Good points all, and yes the hook on the tape is meant to compensate for inside and outside measurement. I agree with all you say as long as you are not trying to measure closer than a 16th, because then you need to move to a finer instrument. The fine woodwork will not always use trim to hide the gap. The bulk of a tape measures case can sometimes be more of a hindrance than a help, but it depends on the scale or length you are working in.

I have been known to use telescopic pointers for shorter inside measurements, then measuring the pointer after I get it out of the enclosure.

Oh and, 28-21/32nds + 1/2 a heavy.

This might be obvious to some, but in my experience people are unfamiliar with the correlation between the movement of the hook… to it’s use for inside/ outside measurements. Tape measures are very accurate this way but almost universally people bend the tape into an inside corner and try to estimate. The size of the case is always printed on the back, and the hook moves on the rivets the distance of it’s own thickness. Amazingly, they’re brands out there that don’t use round numbers making life difficult. I prefer Stanley powerlock II, and then only the ones that are either 2″ or 3″. Some are 2/12″…too much math on the fly (OK quick…what’s 54 13/16 heavy plus 2 1/2 ?
divided by 2? ).

I wrote this installment about Retractable steel tapes and their inherent troubles, with the thought of tapes being a tool for linear measurement. While a combination square can do this too, as it can wear many hats. I have two ulterior motives.

One, I want to introduce people to the freedoms they can find, and the inherent accuracy of the different styles of steel rulers. Rulers most directly are a linear measuring device. I want people to buy them and use them, because I think they are going to like them a great deal once they see how easy they make life after they are included in their workflow.

I have hook rulers in 6, 12 and 18 inches. I use the 6 and 12 the most. I may buy a 24… They have their place. Flat rulers? 6, 12, 24, 36… Seems obsessive I know, but the accuracy I gained paid for itself. In the long run, Wood is far more expensive than tooling, and good layout is the best shot you have at controlling costs, and arriving at expected outcomes, first try.

Two, tackling the usage of the combination square, for me is another installment, and I hope to speak to it’s many uses in ensemble so the big picture can be revealed. You are right though, the combination square can help with this work and more if you own longer rules for them. Starrett makes rules for the combination square to 48 inches. Just bring money.

Dial Calipers are something I rarely have a shop session without using, I use both decimal and fractional, and very heavily, but they are not for me, a go-to tool for linear measurements. I never know when that need may arise though. New challenges present themselves, always.

Happy Woodworking!

Interesting discussion about the foibles of tapes.

In your equation, I am missing the combination square, a tool that I find invaluable for measuring precisely lengths of less than one foot.

And for over 1 foot, but less than three, the carpenter’s square.

And what about the dial caliper?

Your comments about the “hooked” square, though, have “hooked me. I am going to buy one of those.